THE RECOVERING VEGETARIAN - PROBLEM #2 - THE PANEER PROBLEM

 

You are on the highway somewhere in Northern Karnataka and you stop at a Dhaba for Lunch. Whats on the Vegetarian Menu –

Paneer Tikka Masala

Palak Paneer

Paneer Bhurji

Matar Paneer

Veg Jalfrezi  (Am a food lover of sorts and I have honestly never heard of any regional cuisine where that word means anything)

Dal Tadka...etc etc.

 

Now you are out with family at a typical Veg/non veg  family restaurant in Pune. You are not in the mood for non-veg nor for anything continental like Pizza, so let’s check what’s on the desi vegetarian menu for main course. Under the title of ‘Panjabi Dishes’you’ll find  –

Paneer Tikka Masala

Palak Paneer

Matar Paneer

Paneer Bhurji

Veg Jalfrezi  (Usually you have veg versions of Non-veg curries or vice versa. So if ‘Jalfrezi’ exists, why isnt there a chicken/mutton version of this?! Why has this gravy with no unique taste invaded our menus?!!)

Dal Tadka...etc etc.

 

I have lived alone and away from home for 7 years. In my travels from rural parts of Maharashtra to places like Madgao and Hyderabad, I have noticed that majority of generic  restaurants/Dhabas which serve Indian food serve the same Vegetarian menu. It’s the same 3 thick curries- brown, red or green – with Paneer in it. But since when did we as a civilization which is proud  of its diversity, sit down and decide that Paneer is something that should be on every Desi menu?!

 

You musn't be afraid to dream a li'l bigger darling

 

WHAT IS PANEER?

Well most of us do know what Paneer is. Its Cottage Cheese made from ‘breaking’ milk by adding a acidic element like Lemon. Its origins are highly debated but most accepted theories agree that it wasn’t widely consumed in ancient India. It was introduced by Mughals or Portuguese depending which theory you believe. Traditionally consumed in the northern (Punjab, Haryana, Delhi)  and eastern parts (In Bengal particularly where it is known as Chenna) Paneer has since  made its way all across India. It’s used in everything from aforementioned veg curries to snacks like pakodas, tikkas etc. Its also used widely in Bengali desserts. Rossagullas are essentially a form of Paneer.  It is often considered a good replacement for meat by most vegetarians. It is a very rich source of protein, even richer than eggs.

This is NOT the same as Chicken 

WHY IS PANEER?!

But therein lies the problem. Paneer is someone who has never had meat’s idea of what meat should taste like. It is no where even close to any meat in terms texture or taste. It has no original taste of its own.  Therefore, its perplexing yet also understandable why so many restaurants across India have Paneer based dished. It can be just chucked into any readymade color added curry. You could technically cook Potatoes in the same thick gravy and it won’t make much difference.

While it may work for many vegetarians, for recovering vegetarians like myself it’s actually a problem. I don’t have any issues with the product in itself. If you are in Punjab or Delhi by all means eat Paneer Parathas or Pakodas all you want! In fact Paneer tikkas soft cooked to perfection over a grill or in a Tandoor can be absolutely delicious. But there’s putting in effort to actually make something out of it and then there is chucking it in an unimaginative curry and pretending its special.

If you have travelled as much as I have for work or pleasure, seeing Paneer as the only ‘special’ option on a veg menu in majority of restaurants/dhaba is disheartening. I have often went in wanting to eat vegetarian but seeing the same standardized or should I say ‘Paneerized’ menu has made me go for Chicken or Egg. (Or trusty old Dal Tadka if am really not in the mood).

Think of all the options a non-veg menu has, it typically has a Chicken/mutton/sea food dish cooked in awesome local spices. Then there is the trusty Butter Chicken (which may or not be anywhere close to original Punjabi/Delhi Butter Chicken but still good) or Mughlai options like Murg Mussalam etc. Even the non-veg starters have so many options from Desi Chinese ones like Chicken 65 to Mughlai ones like Seekh Kabab, Galouti Kabab to continental ones like chicken fry etc.

All you have on the veg menu (other than usual Aloo Jeera or Dal tadka), are the options I stated above. Even the starters are just Paneer chilly, Paneer Tikka etc. It’s frankly sad to see the lack of imagination when it comes to vegetarian options especially when culturally and historically there is so much variety available.

 

 

 

PANNERIZATION – A BIGGER PROBLEM

Also, it’s not just a matter of individual tastes. If you like Paneer, well enjoy it by all means. But this blatant Paneerization  of our veg menus is a even bigger problem.Even the non- Paneer dishes are the same - Veg Kadhai, Veg Hyderabadi, Aloo Jeera etc.  The same old dishes with the same generic thick curry and color.  Paneerization is killing veg food variety in my opinion. For example if you are a vegetarian and go to Goa, you would be lucky if you encounter traditional Konkani veg dishes like Sorak, Khatkhatem, Moongachi Gathi etc on a restaurant menu. Its either awesome Goan meat/sea food based dishes like Rechado, Cafreal, Xacuti etc or the usual Paneerized menu. 

Even if you are a meat eater, wouldn’t you at least love to try a Konkani Jackfruit Curry if it was promoted on the menu? How about Patwadi Rassa (lentil dumplings in a spicy curry) when in Marathawada or Vidharbha?  Or how about Kofta in a spicy curry?! Or Full Onam Sadhya spread when in Kerala ?

I am not trying to blame the restaurants. They only provide what is demanded. But demand/supply is a tricky thing.  The only northern state which has retained its traditional veg originality is Rajasthan in my experience. In majority of restaurants, you ll find awesome local options like Gatte ka Saag or the popular Daal baati...maybe even rare ones like Ker Sangri ki sabzi. That’s the reason why I enjoy being a complete Vegetarian whenever I have travelled to Rajasthan. (other than the awesome chaat and desserts of course).  This is mainly because Rajasthani people have great pride in their food and have taken efforts to preserve it. Same can be said of Gujarati food to some extent.   

I get that these days even many southern states especially the big cities and tourist centers have to cater to general tastes. But it’s the restaurants supplying the same taste and us not finding any other veggie options is what has defined this ‘general’ taste. If we demanded differently, the results would be different.

 

So much variety and no Paneer in sight!

BEYOND PANEER

However, the scenario is changing. Lately especially in Maharashtra I have seen a lot of places –either fine dine or Dhaba like- have specialized traditional Marathi dishes like (MISAL IS NOT A FUCKING TRADITIONAL DISH OKAY?! ) Pithla Bhakri, Akkha Masoor, Maaswadi rassa, Vangyacha Bharit, Shevga fry etc. There have always been Thali-style restaurants which offer this. But it’s good to see the popular trend catching on with just general desi restaurants as well.

My issue with the Paneerization is that it reaffirms the belief that veg food is ‘boring’ and ‘the same’...When in fact if you choose even one district of any part of this country, it has enough veg variety to last a lifetime. Even if you are looking for a innovative meat and protein substitute there are so many other creative options to explore like Soya, Jackfruit etc etc. (which we will explore next time). So, the next time you are a vegetarian or just a food explorer travelling outside, take the effort and eat local desi. Don’t be lazy. Veg food is more than Paneer Tikka Masala and naan.