THE RECOVERING VEGETARIAN - PROBLEM #2 - THE PANEER PROBLEM

 

You are on the highway somewhere in Northern Karnataka and you stop at a Dhaba for Lunch. Whats on the Vegetarian Menu –

Paneer Tikka Masala

Palak Paneer

Paneer Bhurji

Matar Paneer

Veg Jalfrezi  (Am a food lover of sorts and I have honestly never heard of any regional cuisine where that word means anything)

Dal Tadka...etc etc.

 

Now you are out with family at a typical Veg/non veg  family restaurant in Pune. You are not in the mood for non-veg nor for anything continental like Pizza, so let’s check what’s on the desi vegetarian menu for main course. Under the title of ‘Panjabi Dishes’you’ll find  –

Paneer Tikka Masala

Palak Paneer

Matar Paneer

Paneer Bhurji

Veg Jalfrezi  (Usually you have veg versions of Non-veg curries or vice versa. So if ‘Jalfrezi’ exists, why isnt there a chicken/mutton version of this?! Why has this gravy with no unique taste invaded our menus?!!)

Dal Tadka...etc etc.

 

I have lived alone and away from home for 7 years. In my travels from rural parts of Maharashtra to places like Madgao and Hyderabad, I have noticed that majority of generic  restaurants/Dhabas which serve Indian food serve the same Vegetarian menu. It’s the same 3 thick curries- brown, red or green – with Paneer in it. But since when did we as a civilization which is proud  of its diversity, sit down and decide that Paneer is something that should be on every Desi menu?!

 

You musn't be afraid to dream a li'l bigger darling

 

WHAT IS PANEER?

Well most of us do know what Paneer is. Its Cottage Cheese made from ‘breaking’ milk by adding a acidic element like Lemon. Its origins are highly debated but most accepted theories agree that it wasn’t widely consumed in ancient India. It was introduced by Mughals or Portuguese depending which theory you believe. Traditionally consumed in the northern (Punjab, Haryana, Delhi)  and eastern parts (In Bengal particularly where it is known as Chenna) Paneer has since  made its way all across India. It’s used in everything from aforementioned veg curries to snacks like pakodas, tikkas etc. Its also used widely in Bengali desserts. Rossagullas are essentially a form of Paneer.  It is often considered a good replacement for meat by most vegetarians. It is a very rich source of protein, even richer than eggs.

This is NOT the same as Chicken 

WHY IS PANEER?!

But therein lies the problem. Paneer is someone who has never had meat’s idea of what meat should taste like. It is no where even close to any meat in terms texture or taste. It has no original taste of its own.  Therefore, its perplexing yet also understandable why so many restaurants across India have Paneer based dished. It can be just chucked into any readymade color added curry. You could technically cook Potatoes in the same thick gravy and it won’t make much difference.

While it may work for many vegetarians, for recovering vegetarians like myself it’s actually a problem. I don’t have any issues with the product in itself. If you are in Punjab or Delhi by all means eat Paneer Parathas or Pakodas all you want! In fact Paneer tikkas soft cooked to perfection over a grill or in a Tandoor can be absolutely delicious. But there’s putting in effort to actually make something out of it and then there is chucking it in an unimaginative curry and pretending its special.

If you have travelled as much as I have for work or pleasure, seeing Paneer as the only ‘special’ option on a veg menu in majority of restaurants/dhaba is disheartening. I have often went in wanting to eat vegetarian but seeing the same standardized or should I say ‘Paneerized’ menu has made me go for Chicken or Egg. (Or trusty old Dal Tadka if am really not in the mood).

Think of all the options a non-veg menu has, it typically has a Chicken/mutton/sea food dish cooked in awesome local spices. Then there is the trusty Butter Chicken (which may or not be anywhere close to original Punjabi/Delhi Butter Chicken but still good) or Mughlai options like Murg Mussalam etc. Even the non-veg starters have so many options from Desi Chinese ones like Chicken 65 to Mughlai ones like Seekh Kabab, Galouti Kabab to continental ones like chicken fry etc.

All you have on the veg menu (other than usual Aloo Jeera or Dal tadka), are the options I stated above. Even the starters are just Paneer chilly, Paneer Tikka etc. It’s frankly sad to see the lack of imagination when it comes to vegetarian options especially when culturally and historically there is so much variety available.

 

 

 

PANNERIZATION – A BIGGER PROBLEM

Also, it’s not just a matter of individual tastes. If you like Paneer, well enjoy it by all means. But this blatant Paneerization  of our veg menus is a even bigger problem.Even the non- Paneer dishes are the same - Veg Kadhai, Veg Hyderabadi, Aloo Jeera etc.  The same old dishes with the same generic thick curry and color.  Paneerization is killing veg food variety in my opinion. For example if you are a vegetarian and go to Goa, you would be lucky if you encounter traditional Konkani veg dishes like Sorak, Khatkhatem, Moongachi Gathi etc on a restaurant menu. Its either awesome Goan meat/sea food based dishes like Rechado, Cafreal, Xacuti etc or the usual Paneerized menu. 

Even if you are a meat eater, wouldn’t you at least love to try a Konkani Jackfruit Curry if it was promoted on the menu? How about Patwadi Rassa (lentil dumplings in a spicy curry) when in Marathawada or Vidharbha?  Or how about Kofta in a spicy curry?! Or Full Onam Sadhya spread when in Kerala ?

I am not trying to blame the restaurants. They only provide what is demanded. But demand/supply is a tricky thing.  The only northern state which has retained its traditional veg originality is Rajasthan in my experience. In majority of restaurants, you ll find awesome local options like Gatte ka Saag or the popular Daal baati...maybe even rare ones like Ker Sangri ki sabzi. That’s the reason why I enjoy being a complete Vegetarian whenever I have travelled to Rajasthan. (other than the awesome chaat and desserts of course).  This is mainly because Rajasthani people have great pride in their food and have taken efforts to preserve it. Same can be said of Gujarati food to some extent.   

I get that these days even many southern states especially the big cities and tourist centers have to cater to general tastes. But it’s the restaurants supplying the same taste and us not finding any other veggie options is what has defined this ‘general’ taste. If we demanded differently, the results would be different.

 

So much variety and no Paneer in sight!

BEYOND PANEER

However, the scenario is changing. Lately especially in Maharashtra I have seen a lot of places –either fine dine or Dhaba like- have specialized traditional Marathi dishes like (MISAL IS NOT A FUCKING TRADITIONAL DISH OKAY?! ) Pithla Bhakri, Akkha Masoor, Maaswadi rassa, Vangyacha Bharit, Shevga fry etc. There have always been Thali-style restaurants which offer this. But it’s good to see the popular trend catching on with just general desi restaurants as well.

My issue with the Paneerization is that it reaffirms the belief that veg food is ‘boring’ and ‘the same’...When in fact if you choose even one district of any part of this country, it has enough veg variety to last a lifetime. Even if you are looking for a innovative meat and protein substitute there are so many other creative options to explore like Soya, Jackfruit etc etc. (which we will explore next time). So, the next time you are a vegetarian or just a food explorer travelling outside, take the effort and eat local desi. Don’t be lazy. Veg food is more than Paneer Tikka Masala and naan.

 

THE RECOVERING VEGETARIAN: PROBLEM #1 - ROTI SABZI

 

India is the best country to be a vegetarian. Almost 30-40% of the country is purely vegetarian, depending on what survey you read. Its almost 80% vegetarian during Diwali or Mahashivratri (thats a statistic I just made up). We are the least meat consuming country in the world. Even the most meat –eating Indian is more vegetarian than the average American.  Indians have mastered the art of taking any vegetable or grain and making it seductively tasty with magical spices for thousands of years. (unlike the bland mashed potatoes or greens of western culture).

For that very reason, India is the WORST country to be a recovering vegetarian. I mean its easy to give up KFC or maybe even burgers...but Biryani? Pork Vindaloo? Mutton Rassa? Once you have tasted these its just too hard to let go. However, even if you did muster the will to deal with that and found other alternatives like Paneer, Jackfruit, Soya and Mushroom to taste those magical spices, there are still heaps of problems. Lets start with the first. The real reason why any one from a vegetarian family starts consuming meat or wishes he could is Roti Sabzi.

Surprised? Well Roti Sabzi, Poli Bhaaji call it whatever you want in your local language. Even if you eat it with rice, the Sabzi/Bhaaji is single-handedly responsible for increasing meat consumption in India.  This is not just me making up statistics but ask yourself..you know this to be true. Its the bhaajis like Tinde (Indian Round gourd), Karela (Bitter Gourd), Doodhi (Bottle Gourd), Tondli (Ivy gourd) that really not even any staunch purely vegetarian I know loves.  The bland/bitter tastes of any most of these veggies cant be helped even by the magic of Indian spices or a mothers love. What does it say about these particular vegetable preparations that many would prefer actually slaughtering an animal compared to this. While taste is a subjective matter and am sure that just like there is a minority of cannibal tribes somewhere in the Amazon, there are people who like these veggies. But am hinting at a bigger problem here.

A LACK OF IMAGINATION

Imagine if someone took away your mobile phone now and gave you a directory and a landline to use. You would rightfully be pissed off. There may have been a time when many from the older generation tolerated or been forced into enjoying many of these bland veggies- but the new generation – either veg or non-veg- has tasted much better stuff. You can say we are spoilt to some extent but there’s definitely no going back. Forget about meat options, but wouldnt you prefer eating a fresh salad consisting of cucumber, tomatoes, lettuce, crushed paneer and chat masala than Tinde ki Sabzi and Roti? Or how about just a fruit plate instead of eating Karela?

I am aware that eating your veggies is a good thing and many of these veggies have nutritional traits. However, creative ways must be found to incorporate them if we wish for future generations to eat more Indian veggies. Why not make koftas out of Doodhi rather than a sabzi? Make a mix stew of some of these veggies with Malabar flavours? Try and make it into a tasty paratha? A healthy vegetable dalia? Delicious Pakodas?

Another major problem with all Indian Veggies is not only the lack of nutrition in them. But we often tend to overcook these veggies wherein they lose whatever little nutrition they had. Ayurvedic and Yogic diets often recommend consuming 30-40% raw freshly cut seasonal fruits and vegetables in our meals. While not all vegetables are suitable for raw consumption, options like smoking, light grilling with a coat of spices etc is a good way to incorporate more veggies in your diet.

Tell me you prefer oil covered Doodhi to these beauties

Fine-dine and modern cooking has progressed so far that exploring different textures of the same vegetables can be made into tasty exciting dishes without compromising on nutrition. I do understand hectic life compulsions that force our mothers, wives or anyone who cooks your daily meal to make the easiest possible choices. I am not saying that one should be making mediterranean salads with desi sabzis, but there can be more creative solutions especially in this day and age when ordering in is such a tempting option.

So if you are a recovering vegetarian or want to reduce your meat consumption, start exploring regional Indian flavours. Am sure in your region, heck even in your family itself you can find multiple ways to cook and enjoy delicious vegetarian meals. Start exploring creative ways to use locally available vegetables and grains. Remember every state and culture has hundreds of vegetarian cuisine options. The real fun begins once you think of being a vegetarian as something beyond Daal Chawal and Roti Sabzi.

(I have to make an honorary mention of all the daals (lentils), millets, legumes, pulses and grams here for helping me and all other vegetarian stay vegetarian in the face of deadly villains like Tinde, Tondli etc.)

THE RECOVERING VEGETARIAN: ORIGIN STORY

 

THE EID EXPERIMENT

Date: 12^th May 2021

The Occasion – Ramzan Eid

The Menu – Masoor Biryani, Mushroom Biryani, Hara Bhara Kebab and Shahi tukda for dessert.

The Result- I, Ambarish Deshpande, celebrated a wholly vegetarian Eid. And loved it!

I didn’t accidentally fall into a vat of chemicals that drove me to this. Neither did I volunteer for some super-secret government program. I was not bitten by a radio active vegan and definitely didn’t suddenly develop any mutant powers in my 30's. 

If you are one of my friends or even remotely know me, you are seriously doubting either the fact that I had a fully veggie Eid lunch and loved it or you definitely believe I am going crazy. If you don’t know me, let me tell you a bit about myself- I belong to family which is traditionally purely vegetarian i.e. unlike for example most Bengalis – our family does not have any tradition of cooking/eating non-vegetarian food. The first ones to even eat eggs in my family would be my father’s / uncle’s generation. So am a second-generation meat eater. Not just a meat eater. I am a meat lover. 

I almost ended up marrying her. 

I Love Chicken Tandoori! Love Mutton Biryani! Love Shark Ambot Tik! LOOOOOOOVE Mutton Rassa!! I have travelled hundreds of kilometers to get a chance to eat wild boar. I have waited in line for hours to eat the perfect Konkani crab curry. I have always jokingly said that except human beings or beef (only because I wanted to retain some sign of being a Hindu), I could eat anything that moves. How am I of all people thinking of giving up meat?

So what was it? A visit to a slaughter house? Finally saw chickens being slaughtered and realized the cruelty? No, not quite. I have always believed that if I couldn’t handle to see animals being killed for my taste buds then I didn’t deserve to eat them. See the problem with many meat eaters is, if they actually see the slaughter, they may never even look at meat again. I did not want to become that kind of hypocrite. Whenever I have had the chance to visit a slaughter house or meat market, I actively made it a point to see them slaughter the animal. Without remorse or glee. It wasn’t just to make me feel comfortable, but I realized the moment I couldn’t handle the violence, I would quit it.  I do love animals in general. I love cats, dogs, birds and all wild animals. Their mere presence is not just a soothing experience for me but makes me realize am part of something bigger.

Was it a heart attack? NO! Thank God! NO! I have been detected with diabetes around 4  years ago. Came more of a shock to people around me than to myself. My maternal side carries this genetic heritage.  I was only surprised it came to me so early. But still other than containing the need to have Ice cream for dinner (Yes, I have done that several times in the past), I never thought of reducing/giving up meat consumption because of that. However, I did realize that maybe it could help reduce heart risk and keep my weight in control.

Was it a love for the planet then? Meat farming is not just cruel to animals being slaughtered but a waste of water and land. The same amount of water and land used for meat farming could be used to feed 10 times more people. Even though I am a ‘turn off the fan in every room when no one’s using it’ kinda guy, I am very practical when it comes to economics of food. I do realize that if in a sudden utopian scenario every one turns Veggie than thousands of people could lose their meat industry related jobs. Barren land used for poultry and cattle grazing will still be useless for farming. People living in the coast-lines or in extremely snowy climates have no sustainable natural access to food than meat sometimes. So I think of myself as part of that economy. I do believe that if I could manage it, I may be could reduce my meat consumption for the planet’s sake.

So, what’s my comic book Veggie rebirth origin story?….aha! Ladki ka chakkar?! Did my wife goad me into it? Because believe me women have more power than secret chemical formula or mind control devices to get men into doing things. Most girls have financial or personality requirements on matrimonial sites. One of my wife’s major requirements was – “Looking for a boy who loves non-vegetarian”.  Let me also clarify that my wife comes from a traditional vegetarian family and is a second-generation meat eater just like me. Often times when we used to go out, sometimes I would be the one to suggest exploring some kind of veg options while she would be stubborn on eating non-veg. Out of certain health compulsions and out of her deep love for animals, my wife decided to completely give up meat a few months ago. She’s been more successful at it than me.

If I had to pin down my ‘why’, I couldn’t pin it down to a single incident or a thought process. I have never been a committed health freak or a overtly emotional animal lover. However, I have always been an explorer. I have always known I just love food in general and I love exploring it. If am out with my Jain friends - I enjoy the best Jain food (yes, without Onion or Garlic), if am out with my Christian friends – I have enjoyed eating Pork sausages, if am out with my Muslim friends- I often know the best places to enjoy a Ramzan platter.

One can live without chicken but not without chaat

You can create buildings with a blue print but not behaviors. Neither can they change with just a spark. Everything just comes together for you to make that happen slowly. So, yes it was my increasing awareness of my health. I didn’t want to wait till my arteries clogged up to give up meat. I didn’t want my love for animals to be restricted just to cats, cows and dogs. If I could save the planet a bit by just changing what I eat- that’s the best thing ever. Also, its honestly much easier doing this if you have your wife as company.

But more-over, it’s the excitement of discovering new options, exploring new flavours that has me enjoying being a Recovering Vegetarian. If it wouldn’t have been for my exploring tendencies, I would never have ordered Masoor Biryani and enjoyed it. Being a Recovering Vegetarian allows me to explore things like Jackfruit Biryani or Soya Chaap and much much more. Also, I don’t think I can give up eggs or fish or the occasional piece of chicken just yet. However, I can try and reduce my meat consumption may be someday give it up. Being a vegetarian is perhaps easy, being a Recovering Vegetarian in India comes with its share of problems. We will explore them bit by bit. I know the journey isn’t going to be eggless cakewalk, but I am sure going to have fun along the way. Join me.